Grand Bay of Pigeon Point glows like turquoise paint spread over white silk. The jetty holds fishing skiffs and bright glass-bottom craft ready for reef runs. Further west, Buccoo stretches wide with palms that sway beside calm water. Englishman's Bay curves under forest and sings with small surf. Lovers Bay near Charlotteville shows pink coral sand. Castara stays calm at dusk when fishermen pull seine nets to the shore for a feast of stars each night.

Skies are clear at dawn, and you slip into action. Reef Tours at Store Bay guides novice divers toward the bright coral of Buccoo. Advanced hands ride out to Speyside, where mighty mantas glide above the London Bridge arch. Tobago Waterholics lines you up for kite surfing on flat water in Pigeon Point Lagoon. Inland, you hike Gilpin Trace watching backed motmot flash through trees. After sunset, the glass-bottom craft glides to the Nylon Pool for star gazing.

Stone walls of Fort King George crown Scarborough and guard a wide view across green hills. Cannons still sit, but bright art now fills the old officers' quarters. Down in Plymouth, church bells sound over a mystery tomb said to turn at night. Sunday School in Buccoo beats steel drum rhythms that send hips swaying till the moon slips low. Easter brings a goat race along Buccoo track, a lively dash that rivals horse meets for thrill each year.

Argyle Falls pours three clear tiers into jade basins where you plunge and feel spray on warm skin. Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the oldest protected rain forest in the tropics, shelters the neon hummingbird and the rare red-tailed squirrel. At Little Tobago Island, brown booby wheels above sea cliffs while coral gardens flash below. Nylon Pool, a sandy lagoon in Buccoo Reef, feels like an open sea spa; the sand is said to smooth skin for every lucky visitor.

The Villas at Stonehaven perch on a ridge that looks across Grafton Bay. Staff hand you a chilled towel and fresh lime punch on arrival. Each villa holds a private pool framed by flowering frangipani. Down the coast, Magdalena Grand opens onto palm-lined fairways and a long sweep of sand. You tee off at dawn and step into the spa for a sea salt wrap. As the sun dips, fine dining pans catch lobster on an open flame grill.

Street stalls in Scarborough glaze coconut on a hot iron griddle and hand you warm drops of sweet chew. At Jemma Treehouse in Speyside, you climb stairs into almond branches and taste baked red snapper with callaloo. Seahorse Inn near Black Rock plates king fish under nutmeg butter. Bago Cocktail Bar muddles sorrel with dark rum and lime. Night ends with bake and shark from the Sunday truck at Buccoo, rich with fiery pepper sauce for supper.

Sun slips behind Castara Bay and paints the sky in rose wine tones while you toast with chilled prosecco on soft sand. Paddle a transparent kayak in Bon Accord Lagoon as bioluminescent plankton spark under your strokes. Book a private beach dinner at Mount Irvine and taste lobster by lantern. A crewed catamaran from Charlotteville sails you to secluded Lovers Bay for a lazy swim, and a quiet sail home under a spangled sky that feels endless.

Rainforest zip lines in the Hillsborough Dam region send young hearts soaring through the green canopy. At Adventure Farm in Arnos Vale, kids feed hummingbirds that hover like small jewels. Buccoo Splash Park features soft slides on calm water, allowing you to enjoy safe fun together. Argyle Falls walk suits tiny legs yet rewards with a fabulous pool for a big splash. Glass bottom boat tours over Coral Gardens shine bright fish shapes and keep smiles wide all day.