Loh Dalum Bay sits at the very heart of Phi Phi Don, a broad crescent of sand that widens as the tide drops. Ton Sai Bay lies back-to-back with it, busier and lined with boats. A narrow sandy isthmus joins the two, so you can walk between them. For quieter sand, head north to Laem Tong by boat, or east to Loh Ba Gao Bay, where an 800-metre private beach runs alongside a coconut plantation.
Start underwater. Sea Bees Diving operates from SAii Phi Phi Island Village, and the PADI Dive Center at Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort runs dives, snorkelling and island excursions from Laem Tong. Beginners can try a first dive, while certified divers head for Bida Nok and Bida Nai, among the southernmost islands in the group. Back on dry land, climb to the viewpoint west of Ton Sai Village for a wide view across both bays.
Thai Malay fishermen settled Phi Phi Don in the late 1940s, and coconut plantations followed, which explains the palms behind so many beaches today. Most resident Thais here are Muslim, and at Laem Tong the Urak Lawoi, often called the sea gypsies, keep a village of their own. On Phi Phi Leh, people harvest swiftlet nests at Viking Cave. Ton Sai takes its name from a banyan tree. Only walkers and pushcarts use its lanes.
Maya Bay is a narrow cove, 250 metres long, framed by tall limestone walls on Phi Phi Leh inside Hat Noppharat Thara Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park. Boats stop at a pontoon in Loh Samah Bay, then you walk across the boardwalk and wade no further than your knees. The bay rests each August and September. Blacktip reef sharks live nearby, and rules forbid feeding them. Bamboo and Mosquito Islands are good for snorkelling.
Luxury here is about setting, space and privacy. SAii Phi Phi Island Village spreads out along Loh Ba Gao Bay with beachfront suites, hillside pool villas, two pools, tennis courts, the SAii Spa and a Marine Discovery Centre. Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort, previously Zeavola, sits at northern Laem Tong and is accessible only by boat. Expect oceanfront villas, the Zeavola Spa, a 20-metre beachfront pool, a gym and sunrise yoga in an open sala.
Mornings might begin with fruit smoothies and skewers from the stalls at Tonsai Village Market, followed by grilled seafood and Thai classics beside the water, then Thai cooking classes. Resorts widen the choice. At SAii Phi Phi Island Village, you can pick Mediterranean cooking at Miss Olive Oyl, Thai at Ruan Thai Restaurant and Mr. Tomyam, or Dinner Under the Stars. Outrigger serves Mala Kitchen all day and Edgewater Bar and Grill on the sand.
Reaching Laem Tong takes a boat, and that small effort quietly sets the tone. At Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort, private beach dinners and chef table evenings suit two, and longtail boat trips head out from the beach, while SAii Phi Phi Island Village offers Oceanview Hillside Pool Villas and Dinner Under the Stars. Climb to the viewpoint above Ton Sai as the light slowly softens, then watch both bays turn gold from high above.
Children have real room to roam here. SAii Phi Phi Island Village offers two-bedroom family bungalows, two pools, a nature trail and a Marine Discovery Centre, with snorkelling, boat trips and fishing on offer. Outrigger Phi Phi Island Resort also has the Coral Kids Club and a teen zone, plus kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. A day trip to Maya Bay adds a boardwalk walk and shallow wading, and Bamboo Island makes a relaxed snorkelling stop.
Qatar Airways
Eva Air
